Compared to St. Thomas, St. John's shopping isn't much, but what's here is interesting. The boutiques and shops of Cruz Bay are individualized and quite special. Most of the shops are clustered at Mongoose Junction, in a woodsy area beside the roadway, about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock.

Before you leave the island, you'll want to visit the recently expanded Wharfside Village, just a few steps from the ferry-departure point. Here in this complex of courtyards, alleys, and shady patios is a mishmash of all sorts of boutiques, along with some restaurants, fast-food joints, and bars.

Bamboula, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/693-8699), has an exotic and very appealing collection of gifts from St. John, the Caribbean, India, Indonesia, and Central Africa. The store also has clothing for both men and women under its own label -- hand-batiked soft cottons and rayons made for comfort in a hot climate.

The Canvas Factory, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6196), produces its own handmade, rugged, colorful canvas bags, as well as sailing hats, soft-sided luggage, and cotton hats.

Clothing Studio, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6585), is the Caribbean's oldest hand-painted-clothing studio. Here you can watch talented artists create original designs on fine tropical clothing, including swimwear and daytime and evening clothing, mainly for women and babies, with a few items for men.

Donald Schnell Studio, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6420), is a working studio and gallery where Mr. Schnell and his assistants have created one of the finest collections of handmade pottery, sculpture, and blown glass in the Caribbean. The staff can be seen working daily. They're known for their rough-textured coral work. Water fountains are a specialty item, as are house signs and coral-pottery dinnerware. The studio will ship its work all over the world. Go in and discuss any particular design you may have in mind.

Fabric Mill, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6194), features silk-screened and batik fabrics from around the world. Vibrant rugs and bed, bathroom, and table linens can add a Caribbean flair to your home. Whimsical soft sculpture, sarongs, scarves, and handbags are also made here.

The Marketplace, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6455), with its dramatic architecture and native stone, is a cool place to shop on a hot day and enjoy its verandas and courtyards. It's ideal if you're renting a condo on St. John, as many visitors do, as the market here includes everything from a hardware shop to a video store, plus health care needs and a lot more.

R and I Patton Goldsmithing, Mongoose Junction (tel. 340/776-6548), is one of the oldest businesses on the island. Three-quarters of the merchandise here is made on St. John. There's a large selection of island-designed jewelry in sterling silver, gold, and precious stones. Also featured are the works of goldsmiths from outstanding American studios, as well as Spanish coins.

The location of The Shop at Caneel Bay, in the Caneel Bay resort (tel. 340/776-6111), guarantees both an upscale clientele and an upscale assortment of merchandise. Scattered over two simple, elegant floors are drugstore items, books, sundries, and handcrafts, as well as some unusual artwork and pieces of expensive jewelry. There are also racks of resort wear and sportswear for men and women. The shop carries handbags and watches by top designers.

The Best Shopping Day--The most fun shopping on the island takes place on St. John Saturday, a colorful, drum-beating, spice-filled feast for the senses, held on the last Saturday of every month. This daylong event begins early in the morning in the center of town and spills across the park. Vendors hawk handmade items, ranging from jewelry to handcrafts and clothing, and especially food made from local ingredients. One vendor concocts soothing salves from recipes passed on by her ancestors; another designs and makes porcelain earrings; another flavors chicken and burgers with her own wonderful secret hickory barbecue sauce; yet another hollows out and carves gourds from local calabash trees.